Is vitamin A still one of the most effective in cosmetics?

In recent years, the cosmetics market has been paying great attention to newly introduced substances – unknown plant names or extracts obtained from completely natural sources, the same hemp oil and CBD, or substances newly introduced to the market that slow down the skin aging process. Many have focused on innovations and for some reason completely forgot about the good old classics, the effectiveness of which has been proven by decades of research. One of them is vitamin A. I would dare to say that so far it is still one of the most effective substances used in the cosmetics industry.

Vitamin A and Retinol

Vitamin A, also often called Retinol, has been one of the most sought-after ingredients in creams for many years, which were supposed to stop skin changes and prolong its youth. And it was certainly not without reason. Briefly about the substance itself and its forms. Both natural and synthetic forms of vitamin A can be found in cosmetics, but the effectiveness depends more on the chemical form of the vitamin, but not on its origin. The most effective form used is retinol, which, when applied to the skin, is able to penetrate into the deepest layers of the epidermis (including the dermis) and there, after “reacting” with skin cells, turns into retinoic acid, the effect of which on the skin is truly surprising – it actively stimulates collagen production, thickens the epidermis, reduces wrinkles and skin pigmentation, helps fight acne, eczema, psoriasis, improves skin moisture balance, and acts as a powerful antioxidant. Retinoic acid could also be used in cosmetics, which theoretically should be even stronger than retinol, but many scientific studies show very similar effects of the two substances, and skin irritation would likely be more severe if pure retinoic acid were to come into contact with the skin, rather than retinol. Another important fact is that in Europe, retinoic acid is banned from use in cosmetics.

Side effects of vitamin A

About the side effects of vitamin A. The active effect of this substance is not only positive, in very often cases it irritates and strongly sensitizes the skin - when using more concentrated products, reactions such as skin redness, peeling and severe irritation begin to appear. Therefore, products with vitamin A should be used with extreme caution and the skin should be accustomed to it little by little - consistently increasing the concentration of vitamin A and gradually switching to products with more active forms of it and a higher percentage in the cosmetic product.

What form of vitamin A is most effective?

Other popular forms of vitamin A are also used in cosmetics – retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate. They are less active, because when they get on the skin, they must first be converted into retinol, and only then into retinoic acid, so the risk of skin irritation is much lower. However, they do have a positive effect on the skin – they act as strong antioxidants, fight wrinkles, stimulate epidermal cell renewal, and regulate sebum production. From the latest news, we can also mention bakuchiol, its origin is completely different from retinol, but the effect shown is very similar and, most importantly, it does not sensitize the skin. This is still a very new substance in the cosmetics industry, so it is definitely worth waiting for a wider range of studies to substantiate its effectiveness.

What strength products should I use?

Vitamin A concentration in the product. Usually, in the European Union, from 0.0015% to 0.3% of pure retinol is used for cosmetic production. If it is other forms of it, such as retinyl palmitate or acetate, the concentration in the product will be higher, because they contain much less retinol itself. Many studies show that even a lower, for example 0.1% retinol, concentration in the product is really effective and has a significant enough effect on improving the skin condition. Therefore, it is not at all necessary to choose creams or serums with a high concentration of retinol to achieve the desired effect. Especially knowing the fact that it is a skin irritant. Two scenarios are possible: first - the skin does not tolerate this substance in principle and will be sensitized every time, second - the skin can be accustomed little by little, starting with very low concentrations and increasing them every time. I would definitely not recommend starting immediately with very active products with retinol. That's all for now about active ingredients, I really hope to return to other ingredients in this "veteran" category in future articles. And for now, the same advice as always - don't chase innovations, choose products slowly, and try products containing retinol very carefully.